How do i sight in my 30 06

If you encounter a problem at go back to 50 and find out where you are hitting. Adjust and try again. I thought you would get about 50 responses stating Check every screw on your rifle for tightness then clean it. Here is some advice for after you have done all that. Next time you are at the range try the following. No caffeine before you go, next breath control take a breath not a big one just normal let out about half then hold it, squeeze the trigger, if it takes a while for you to stabilize then start over.

Pick a target that has a small spot to aim at no bigger than a dime. Right Rail 1 Ad. Top Active Users. Right Rail 2 Ad. Latest Topics. Platform ready! Ladder is 2x8 runners with 2x6 steps. Will put a Channel: Whitetail Deer Hunting. Monday Music. Good morning everyone. Channel: Other. Time travel! Don't forget! Set your clock back 1 hour. Do something remarkable so you can relive that hour at AM! Say Hello to Winsome Sears.

Here is Winsome, x-Marine, born in Jamacia, now Lt. Governor of VA. Here she is at the range with her AR. Elastic buttstock shell holders revisited. We've talked of this before but had someone ask me about mine today so Loaded with ammo, they ruin the guns handling.

Remove the bolt from the rifle and place the rifle on a solid rest. Look through the barrel and place the bullseye in the center of the barrel. Your eye will automatically center the smaller circle the bullseye inside the larger circle inside of the barrel.

Now ease your face up until you can see through the scope. If the scope cross-hairs are centered in the bullseye, you will be able to hit the target.

If they are not centered, you should adjust the scope until the cross-hairs are centered in the bullseye. When you are bore-sighting by this method you must move the scope adjustments opposite the direction you want the cross-hairs to move.

For example, if your cross-hairs are low, you will move the vertical scope adjustment screw in the direction that says down. If the cross-hairs are to the right of the bullseye you must move the horizontal adjustment in the direction that says right. The next step is to select your ammunition. Most modern rifles will shoot bullets of "medium" weight with good hunting accuracy. In a 7mm, look for to grain bullets. Many rifles will perform more favorably with one brand of ammunition over another.

If you can afford to, buy at least two different brands of ammunition and two bullet weights for sighting-in. Be sure to use hearing and eye protection. Now your rifle is ready for sighting-in with live ammunition. Shooting ranges will have benches to sit at for sighting-in. If you will not be using one of these facilities, use a small table. You must be comfortably seated for sighting-in. Place the forestock of the rifle on a solid rest.

Sand bags work well or a block of wood covered with an old towel will do. As an example. Good Luck. I'd suggest zeroing for yards on the nose. Aim above the center point on the rear of the shoulder so you don't damage too much meat and you take out both lungs. It's rare to take a shot in GA that is beyond about 80 yards but you can shoot effectively out to yards just fine with that zero if you have to.

You just have to know the drop. The drop table is marginally different from a yard zero but just as effective. Regardless of which zero distance you choose, the main thing is that you know and test the drop at likely shooting distances so you become familiar with them.

You can see these drops for your load in most reloading manuals or online ballistics calculators. I'd suggest setting up targets at 25, 50, , and yards, even more if you need to shoot longer distances. It pays to know. You will find the is pretty flat shooting for a few hundred yards and it has a very predictable drop for yards once you have the drop table and test your ammo.

I also hunt mostly in thick woods and I think there's a strong argument to be made against the yard zero for this kind of shooting. Yes, zeroing for 2" high at gives you a very long distance at which your rifle is shooting "minute of deer.

When a nice buck sticks its whole head and neck out from behind a tree, at 50 yards, you'll want to be able to put the cross hairs right where the bullet should go. Neck shots, spine shots on bedded deer, etc. Especially as thick-woods shot opportunities also tend to be brief! For my hunting here in the Adirondacks, I zero at yards. That means my bullet is apt to hit right where I'm aiming at any likely range inside of I shoot grain loads from the ' It's more than you need for deer, but I think slower and heavier is less apt to come apart on a shoulder shot, etc.

Guys, I think he is saying he can't find a place to Zero in at yds. So he needs to know where to be at 75yds. But that will vary depending on the load and how high his scope mounts are. Originally posted by Dougfir View Post. If your question is where to zero at 75 yards, because you are limited to that distance for zeroing, I suggest you zero at 75 yards. For most bullets, that will be almost equivalent to a yard zero.

For example, with a g Nosler Accubond going fps, a 75 yard zero will put you. You will need a good micrometer to measure the difference at yards though. Winchester makes an app that will show you how your bullets will fly when sighted in a different distances. You'll want to check on your rifle and be sure but I've found them to usually be pretty close.

I prefer to sight in most of my rifles at 25 or 30 yards because that will allow me to aim right on the deer's vitals to just under yards Attached Files.

Clay Cooper. Go away for a while and this place turns to ACK! Ok here's the right way no lie! Originally posted by jhjimbo View Post.